During many of my visits to Jamaica over last 30 years, I’ve had the privilege of visiting Black River in St. Elizabeth Parish.
Lower Morass is filled with crocodiles resting in its dark waters under the mangrove roots that line its banks. I have to admit, their stone cold eyes and their proximity is at first terrifying. However, after years of visiting these beautiful creatures, their mere presence brings instantaneous calm.
About 10 km up the river is Middle Quarters, a town famous for pepper swimp (shrimp) stalls that line the A2 roadside. The shrimp are caught using centuries old, traditional, West African traps, boiled in Dutch pots filled with a salt and crushed scotch bonnet pepper brine. Passing through Middle Quarters, it was always customary to pickup a couple bags for the road, as well a few for family and friends.
A lot of the landscape has changed in Jamaica since my youth, but the serene calmness of Lower Morass, and my excitement for the short stop in Middle Quarters has not.
